Ten Tables review

Pull up a chair at Ten Tables Cambridge
By Mat Schaffer | Saturday, June 20, 2009 | http://www.bostonherald.com | Dining Reviews

TEN TABLES CAMBRIDGE: B-

When tiny Ten Tables opened in Jamaica Plain in December 2002, Bostonians quickly fell in love with its Lilliputianism: five appetizers, five entrees and five desserts in a shoebox-sized storefront with, yes, only 10 tables.

Now, owner Krista Kranyak has opened a second branch in Cambridge, taking over the old Craigie Street Bistrot location.

There are twice as many tables, but the minimalist concept remains the same. Co-owner David Punch (The Nightingale, UpStairs on the Square and Rendezvous) is executive chef. His no-nonsense culinary approach - fresh, seasonal, simple - suits this residential neighborhood haunt with its bistro sensibilities.

Over several recent visits, we enjoyed salted Atlantic cod beignets ($9) - puffy, deep-fried fritters that we dunked into garlicky almond romesco sauce - and an unctuous, if underseasoned crock of pate-like organic salmon rillettes ($11) that we slathered on brioche toast and napped with Old Bay Seasoning-flavored creme fraiche, grainy mustard and tart, pickled fiddleheads.

Celebrate springtime with green garlic and semolina brodo ($9) with a poached farm egg and wilted spinach greens - the egg yolk fortifies the thick broth. Homemade Berkshire pork chorizo ($10), piquant with pimenton, Spanish paprika, is delicious with soupy stewed cannellini beans. It’s an old-world treat.

There are European touches scattered across the menu, including acumin-scented, adobo-rubbed bavette (flap) steak frites ($25) - a tender slab of beef garnished with camembert butter and served with crisp fries, pickled ramps, aioli and a cabernet-veal reduction. It’s everything you ever wanted in steak frites.

Berkshire pork chop ($23) is so succulently flavorful I suspect it’s been brined. Chewy, pan-fried spaetzle are tossed with sugary roasted Chantenay carrots and turnip greens.

The kitchen receives high marks for its skillet-roasted Gianonne chicken ($19) with crisped skin and moist flesh. It’s on a bed of faro and red Bhutanese rice pilaf with buttery favas and slivered asparagus, and surrounded by a ladle of morel cream.

Seared day boat sea scallops ($23) pair perfectly with sweetish Meyer lemon puree. But the accompanying hash of fingerling potatoes, haricots verts, cipollini onions and bits of Serrano ham is overwhelmed by mint.

Too bad that you can’t see what it is you’re eating. The nutmeg-colored dining room, with its burgundy leatherette banquettes, is so dimly lighted that your meal looks monochromatic. And the banquettes are so uncomfortable, you may want to request chair seating. However, the feng shui here is oddly strong for such an idiosyncratic spot.

The cafeteria-caliber cutlery needs an upgrade.

The 75-bottle wine list skews upward of $30. A blackberry-accented 2007 Desino Malbec ($34) is delicious with both the steak frites and pork chop. Try a lychee and pear ’07 A to Z Riesling ($33) with the chicken and scallops.

Former Myers + Chang executive chef Alison Hearn is in da house wearing a pastry chef’s jacket. Her trio of cinnamon-sugar-dusted Basque donuts ($8) stuffed with almond cream and dolloped with cherry jam is a guilty pleasure. Dense chocolate terrine ($8) sprinkled with sea salt and crowned with Thai basil ice cream is bittersweet and uber-fudgy.

Where to park? Ten Tables has four spaces, or try for a metered spot. No wonder most of the clientele seem to live close by.

Hours: Mon.-Thurs., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 5-9 p.m.

Bar: Beer and wine

Credit: All

Recession specials: No

Accessibility: Stairs

Parking: Small lot, on street

5 Craigie Circle, Cambridge. 617-576-5444; tentables.net.

Price: $20-$40
Article URL: http://www.bostonherald.com/entertainment/food_dining/reviews/view.bg?articleid=1179763