Martha's Vineyard restaurant reviews

Martha’s Vineyard dining on Up and Up
By Mat Schaffer | Friday, August 14, 2009 | http://www.bostonherald.com | Dining Reviews

STATE ROAD

Once a restaurant wasteland, Up-Island is now a hot dining destination on Martha’s Vineyard.

Check out State Road, a new West Tisbury eatery owned by Jackson and Mary Kenworth (Sweet Life and Slice of Life cafes in Oak Bluffs). It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner but, come suppertime, a table is nearly impossible to obtain without a reservation. One recent Sunday evening, we waited close to an hour for seats at the bar.

Meanwhile, we commandeered a bench in the backyard herb garden, where we noshed on sliced artichoke frites ($12) dipped into thick, citrus mint yogurt and deep-fried, roquefort fritters ($6), each a mouthful of gooey goodness.

In the early 1990s, Jackson Kenworth charmed Bostonians with his cooking at Marais in the Theater District. At State Road, Kenworth’s contemporary American cuisine, emphasizing locally raised ingredients, is as delicious as ever.

Pan-roasted Georges Bank cod ($32) wrapped in pancetta and napped with tangy roasted tomato vinaigrette is great seasonal eating - with shotgun pellet-sized hominy grits, broccoli rabe and pickled green onion.

The assertive smokiness of juicy, wood-fired rotisserie chicken ($29) is excellent with pommes frites, garlicky sauteed spinach and a side of buttery herbed spaetzle ($6).

Because West Tisbury is a dry town, BYOB. There’s a $9 per bottle corkage charge.

With its vaulted ceilings and simple decor, State Road is a lovely space. But look closely at the Shaker ambiance and you’ll discover swank accents and accoutrements - the work of designer Michael S. Smith of Santa Monica, Calif.

Smith was selected by Michelle Obama to redesign the White House family quarters. Could that mean the first couple might eat here when they vacation on the island later this month?

Dear President Obama, bring home one of State Road’s creamy chocolate bars ($6). Made by Andrew Shotts, former pastry chef at La Cote Basque in Manhattan, they’re desserts for the road.

State Road, 688 State Road, West Tisbury. 508-693-8582; stateroadmv.com.

CHILMARK TAVERN

One of Cambridge’s favorite chefs, Chez Henri owner Paul O’Connell, has temporarily relocated to the Vineyard. He’s opened Chilmark Tavern in the old Feasts space next to Chilmark Store in Beetlebung Corner.

The site has seen many restaurants come and go. Chilmark Tavern may be a keeper. O’Connell’s expert cooking has been enthusiastically embraced by Up-Islanders. They also flock here for the cozy BYOB bar with its inventive mixers ($5) such as Bing cherries and bitters and strawberry rhubarb rickey.

When it’s busy, the barnlike, off-white, dimly lighted room can be deafeningly loud. The better to concentrate on your meal of not-too-heavy, summery dishes made from Vineyard products.

We devoured baked clams Havana casino ($15), plump littlenecks topped with smoked-paprika-seasoned bread crumbs and shards of spicy chorizo. And a farmhouse salad ($14) of greens, hardboiled egg, aged cheddar and pickled red onion tossed in warm bacon vinaigrette.

Chilmark-raised Allen Farm lamb cooked two ways ($36) is a Mediterranean duet of Italian-inspired handmade cavatelli pasta tossed with crumbled lamb sausage and garlicky broccoli rabe; and slices of grilled lamb leg atop a Greek-influenced salad of chopped tomatoes, olives, feta and mint.

O’Connell’s delectable interpretation of lobster Americaine ($35) features buttery Menemsha-caught lobster over dense corn pudding with glazed baby carrots and savoy cabbage slaw.

There’s a $5 per bottle corkage fee.

Chilmark Tavern’s food is so good you’ll willingly forgive the occasionally sluggish service and kitchen inconsistencies. Promised chopped egg in the salad isn’t chopped. Ragout of lamb sausage isn’t ragout. And the corn pudding is more cornbread than pudding.

That said, you’ll leave happy and satisfied - especially after a bowl of warm strawberry, peach and rhubarb cobbler ($9) under a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

And, if you’re lucky, a glimpse of one of the Hollywood celebs who live nearby.

Chilmark Tavern, 9 State Road, Chilmark. 508-645-9400; chilmarktavern.com
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