The Boston Phoenix
Restaurant Reviews
Deuxave
Flawed deconstruction, no matter how you pronounce it
By ROBERT NADEAU | November 17, 2010
Deuxave 1.0 Stars
PRETTY, TASTY: The best deconstruction here is the “velvet cheesecake,” but much of the menu is better to look at than to eat.
Maybe it is all relative. Last week, Deuxave got three stars from a daily newspaper reviewer who compared it to its neighbor across the street, Clio — a restaurant famous for tiny, expensive portions of beautifully plated food. I walked into Deuxave thinking about a dozen gastropubs serving much the same food, without as much visual appeal perhaps, but for 60 percent of the price.
To me, Deuxave was as pretentious as its phony Franglish name — and flawed besides, by undercooked legumes and oversalted seafood. Deconstructed steak, deconstructed cheesecake. What's the point? The food at "Doo-ave" (the intended mispronunciation, like a duo of crossing avenues, Massachusetts and Commonwealth) is better on the tongue than the name is, but it's also nicer to look at than to eat, and not worth the price no matter what you're doing with it.
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